The Fabric Alchemist

This is a follow-up to the Ezio Auditore (Assassin’s Creed 2: Brotherhood) costume series, specifically the Designing the Assassin post. In response to a reader’s questions about how I modified the tunic and doublet patterns, I wanted to provide a few how-to illustrations. I was not able to find all of my sewing notes, so I am focusing on the core garment, not the details.  I hope this is helpful.

Undertunic Pattern Design

• (A) Trace Simplicity 9887 Tunic pattern (piece #1) onto tracing paper, pattern paper, or clear plastic (like you cover your windows with in the winter). This is use for Front and Back pieces of the tunic.
• (B) Based on your measurements, fold the pattern approximately along the red lines, toward the orange lines. For a person with a chest measurement of 40 inches, my final pattern was [inches] wide at the chest, just below the armholes.
• (C) Add extra pattern paper to match the blue lines. Tip of hem should fall to mid-calf and the flare is minimal.
• (D) For the FRONT tunic piece only, add 1.5 inches to the center front (blue lines). This will be folded under like a hem. The back half pattern piece will be placed on the edge of folded fabric when cutting it out.

**I would recommend waiting until you have created a test garment (bedsheets, muslin) before deciding on the final collar shape (red line).

• (E) Trace Simplicity 4059 Sleeve pattern (piece #16). (I also used the pattern for sleeve cuff). Center line placed on folded edge of fabric when cutting out.
• (F) Fold the sleeve to reduce the circumference (and puffiness) of the sleeve. I reduced the pattern by 4 inches. You may have to adjust the curve of the sleeve’s armhole after you fold it.
• (G) Make sure that the armhole curve of the sleeve and the armhole of the tunic roughly match in length (maroon line represents tunic armhole size). It is ok if the sleeve is bigger, it will just make for a puffier sleeve. If the tunic armhole is bigger, refold your sleeve pattern piece to increase its size.

Make a test garment (muslin) if you have not already and see how it fits.

Doublet Pattern Design

• (A) Trace Simplicity Pattern 4059 doublet front (#25) and back (#5) pieces.
• (B) Tape these two together (overlapping the 5/8 inch seam allowance) to create a single pattern piece.
• (C) Add pattern paper to extend the doublet (if necessary) so it hangs just over your hips (blue lines).

**make a test garment at this point to make sure the doublet fits you the way you want. Make adjustments until you are happy, then move onto dividing the doublet into segments.

• (D) On this pattern base, add a 2 inch hem (blue line) and draw on the doublet segments (green lines). Keep in mind that the outer edges of the doublet pattern still include seam allowances (shoulder, collar, front, back).
• (E) These are the individual pieces (before seam allowances are added) in the doublet, albeit very roughly drawn.
• (F) Ultimately I combined B1-B2 and C1-C2 to create a pattern piece that wrapped over the shoulders (since the concept art has no shoulder seams).

Add at least a 1/2 inch seam allowance around each pattern piece.

Now I would recommend you make another test garment of the individual doublet segments to make sure it all still fits.

GOOD LUCK!

**UPDATE 9/24/13**

These photos show the shape of the sleeve cap. It was a pattern piece I had to draft on my own, and I’m only semi-happy with the results. The crescent shape with “jagged teeth” is sewn to the edge of the B1-B2 pattern piece, centered on where the shoulder seam would have been.